In a belay system, where is the pulley system used for shear reduction typically located?

• A. In the harness
• B. At the belay anchor
• C. At the top of the power pole
• D. Inside the carabiner

Answer: (C)

Shear reduction comes from redirecting the load with a pulley so the force is taken high in the system rather than directly through a single point. Placing the pulley at the top of the power pole puts the load path through the strongest, most redundant part of the setup, keeping the rope’s direction change near the anchor and away from the climber. This minimizes sideways or shear stress on the structure and reduces the risk of concentrating load at a vulnerable point. If the pulley were placed on the climber’s harness or inside a carabiner, the pulley effect wouldn’t protect the anchor or reduce shear effectively, and placing it only at the belay anchor wouldn’t maximize the load redirection.